Our Last Day in Paris

I thought it was fitting that while Michael went to work, I would pack up the baby and go visit Victor Hugo‘s house. Paris had come together much more for me now that we’d wandered around it for a few weeks. The house was just a 20 minute walk from our flat. The day was beautiful, sunny and cool, and I discovered that the Maison de Victor Hugo was in Place des Vosges, which is where I brought the baby to play in the sandbox one of our first days in Paris. I love this part of the city, it’s like a little hidden gem that whisks you back to the 18th century just behind bustling streets filled with Victoria’s Secrets and Gaps.

When I came into the square…and I know it sounds cornball…it made me tear up again. ! Somehow the fate of our little family is now linked to Victor Hugo, who walked in and out of Place des Vosges many days of his life. And here we are in his park on our way to go look at his house to see how he lived his life. This, the day after we find out Michael will take the reins of a show based on his work. Eeeeeeek! It’s too good…

At the fountain at Places des Vosges

Les Mis is on my kindle now. I haven’t read it in years, and with Paris fresh in my mind I’m really looking forward to a deeper understanding of it than I’ve ever had before. My French history is not up to snuff, I was hoping to brush up on it a little bit this trip, but the baby was the thing. Maybe next time when he’s older. On this day, I sat in a beautiful cafe and had a lovely lunch with a glass of rose from Provence just to bring it all full circle. Then we went up to the house.

This view was the first thing Mr. Hugo took in upon walking into his future home.

From this, he turned to the owner and said, I’ll take it. I’m not sure he would have said that if he’d only seen my photograph of this view.

There were no photographs allowed throughout the rest of the quietly well appointed house…and I’m not really adept in describing what I SEE—but I can tell you it reminded me very much of our former 1890s, NYC brownstone. I can just hear our former landlady now saying, ‘Synchronicity, Kids.’

On the topic of the old brownstone, our last evening in Paris was then spent with our old upstairs neighbor’s sister. If you knew our old upstairs neighbor,  you would think, ‘Wha? How did that happen?’

But since you probably don’t, I will bring you up to speed so then you can ask yourself, ‘Wha? How did that happen?’

Our former upstairs neighbor, who for the sake of anonymity, I will call Mr. T, claimed to be an ‘entertainment lawyer’ at some point in his life but I think he turned that title into entertained lawyer or entertaining lawyer. I’m not entirely sure. I never really believed anything he ever told me. He has a stoma (I’m guessing because he smoked too much??) so he talks by placing his hand on his throat (to cover the air hole in his neck) to produce a rough, raspy voice similar to that of a very masculine Marge Simpson. Consequently, he always, always wears a bandana around his neck. In his heyday he ‘worked’ with the likes of John Lennon, Mick Jagger, Slash, Roger Waters, Steven Tyler…the list goes on.

For the record, I was terribly fond of him. He is a total blow hard and always told me how good I looked. This was nice to hear when I was postpartum and hadn’t slept or exercised in 3 months and had eaten nothing but Oreos. He won me over. He also regaled us with stories that I thought were absolute nonsense. My favorite was when we saw him place a giant cardboard box in the recycling and he told us Slash (yeah, right) had just sent him a large, flat screen TV (this was in the days before everyone and their mom had a big flat screen TV. It still had a certain cache to it, if you will).

(Slash is a very famous guitarist.)

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A year later Michael and I attended the opening night party of Spamalot at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas (doesn’t that sound fancy?). Rumor had it, somewhere in the giant ballroom lurked none other than Slash.

‘Darn it,’ I said to Michael, ‘if only we could meet him and ask him if he really knows Mr. T!’ Ha Ha Ha. It didn’t happen.

As the evening drew to a close and Michael and I walked back to our hotel room, there, in the distance, waaaaaaaaay in front of us, drifted the tell-tale top hat of Mr. Slash himself. I quickened my step. As we arrived at the elevator banks, Slash and his wife had just stepped into the first car and as the doors closed I thought…’uggg…we missed our chance!!!’ But then a miracle happened.

Slash held the doors for us.

We slipped into the elevator and my brain lost its ability to form sentences. Here was our chance, it was just the four of us in here!…just us!…and I had no voice, I couldn’t do it! Come on Michael…save this sinking ship! Michael did no such thing and instead we both sat in that elevator thinking the same thoughts with the same goofy/demented smiles on our faces. We must have looked like a couple of lunatics. The elevator reached our floor and I stepped out, thoroughly disappointed in the future O’Donnells as a united front. We were engaged now, if we couldn’t handle this together, what could we handle? Now we would never know if Mr. T. was a big fat liar or not.

But wait.

Slash and his wife stepped out on our floor too. (!!!) We could still do it…there was still hope! They walked slowly behind us and I could feel my heart beat in my chest…come on kid…just turn around and ask him…just do it for crying out loud!! Then…just as I mustered up the nerve, we hit a T junction. Slash went to the right as we turned to the left.

Crestfallen, I admitted defeat when I heard a soft voice say, ‘Slash!! No! Come on! Our room is this way!’ Slash’s wife actually calls him Slash.

OK. Well, that was it. Clearly the Universe was trying to tell me something. Michael shot me a look as if to say…’don’t you dare bother him,’ but it was too late! When the Universe gives you not one, not two, but THREE opportunities to ask Slash a question you had better do it.

‘Um, excuse me?’ squeaked out Cindy Loo Who, who apparently replaced my adult voice, ‘I’m sorry to bother you.’

Slash honestly looked like he was going to punch me. In fact, he’d probably turned the wrong way at the T junction on purpose just to get away from our creepy moon faces. Before he could call security I blurted out, ‘Do you know Mr. T.?’

He stopped for a second and his whole disposition changed, his face melted into a big, slashy smile. ‘Yeah, I know Mr. T.’

Michael jumped in at this point, explaining the TV, how we thought he was a liar, etc., etc. And then his wife asked, ‘Who’s Mr. T?’

Slash replied…’You know, Jack’s friend, the one who’s always like’…and at this point he reached his hand up to cover his throat and in his best masculine sounding Marge Simpson voice said, ‘Hey Slash what’s going on dude?’

Until the birth of my son, this may have been the single greatest moment of my life.

So now that you know a little more about our former upstairs neighbor, I can tell you I ran into him at Fairway the day before we left for France and he told me he wanted to give my email to his sister who is really cool. She worked in finance, married a man who used to run the International Monetary Fund (not Strauss-Kahn), they lived in Paris, etc., etc.

Long story short we met her for a cocktail at a lounge that sits outside the Louvre facing the Pyramids. She was fantastic. When she emailed me she said, ‘I’m Mr. T’s sister. I don’t admit that to just anyone.’

Our little family went to dinner after that, but oddly, I wasn’t feeling very well. In fact, I couldn’t eat my supper…oh, but I’m sure I’d feel much better in the morning…

Michael shot one last view of our street.

Paris is (not) Burning

As sad as it was to leave Provence, we were so excited to be heading back to Paree! Eeeeeeeeee! Our sweet and fabulous Michael rose at the crack of dawn and went back into Forcalquier to exchange our host’s gift before we headed to the train station. Michael overheard the night before how he was desperate for platters in the house, so back went the bowl and the apron in their place were 4 beautiful white ceramic platters hand made by small elves in the middle of the forest or something. Our host LOVED them. I mean he really loved them. I have to hand it to Michael he really scored there, and this is why I had to forgive him for delaying our departure time and getting lost and well…I won’t go into all the details, but we missed our train back to Paris. Our journey looked a little something like this:

NEVERMIND! We just bought two new train tickets and we were on our way once again.

They switched our apartment in Paris from the one we had the video of…so we were heading into the unknown. But the place is cute as pie, a little bigger than the other one, but still pretty tiny. I like to call it a pre-war apartment as in pre-every war that ever happened. It was built in the time when people were still very, very tiny, or when no one was allowed to be taller than Napolean. But as teeny as it is, it has a washer/dryer and a dishwasher, 2 things they simply cannot figure out how to get into pre-WWII apartments in New York. They can’t figure it out…they just can’t.

Meanwhile, we spent the day moving in and then we popped out to explore our neighborhood and realized we live off this adorable, pedestrian only street named Montorguiel. It’s full of fruit stands and brasseries, fromageries and boulangeries, chocolate shops and poisonneries, pharmacies and a StarBucks (sigh-they just can’t seem to leave well enough alone can they?).

But best of all…at the very end of this rainbow lies a fantastic French playground (in the shadow of a large Cathedral), full of darling little French children that I can actually converse with in French because my French is at the level of a 4 year old. This is my first French conversation with a 4 year old:

‘Je suis le capitaine de le bateau! Non filles!! Garcons!’ (I am the captain of this boat. No girls! Only boys!)

‘Mais oui? Je pense que vous etes un clown!’ (oh yes? I think you’re a clown!)

‘NON! Je suis le capitaine!!’ (NO! I am the captain!)

‘Vous etes le capitaine de les clowns!’ (You are the captain of the clowns!)

At which point the boy burst out laughing and ran off to meet Madeline and buy himself a new Hermes scarf.

After playing in cool, seventy something, partly cloudy weather (in august (!)) and then eating in a Brasserie, our little family was drunk with bubbly, French happiness.

And the next day was the Capitaine of our bateau’s first day of work. Yippppeee!

Forcalquier

We woke up from our deep French sleep, had our continental breakfast and then decided to take a quick drive into Forcalquier, the closest town. We were secretly on the prowl for a good thank you gift for our host. We had no sense of his aesthetic before we arrived so we thought it best to wait and have a peek at his taste before we chose anything.

The photo above shows the view of Forcalquier as you drive toward it. It’s so charming. I love how the town spirals up a hill and is then topped with a church. It’s such a beautiful picture. We parked down at the bottom of the town and worked our way up on foot, but I will tell you this, we did not get far. My socks were charmed right off within the first 10 minutes of walking and I did that thing you do when you travel…that thing where you feel like the one restaurant or shop you pass first will be the ONLY one in the town you’re in and if you don’t stop and buy everything in it right away you will miss out for the rest of your life. And then, inevitably the whole town is filled with food, wine and clothing far better than what you spent all your money on first. I knew this going in, but I was SO excited and so enamored that I lost my head and wanted to capture as much of Forcalquier as I could. It boasted monuments that dated back to the fourth century. That means 300 as in year 300.

Well, we didn’t really have time to delve into all that—Michael found an amazing place to sit down to eat. We ordered a Provencal Platter for 2 and it was awesome. I can’t even remember what was on it…this crazy melted goat cheese over black olive tampenade, tomato & mozz, olives, boquerones (marinated white anchovies), anchovy dip, crudite, eggplant caviar. We had rose and a glass of pastis (which basically tastes like licorice).

Fortified, we moved on to shop! For the group we picked up 2 bottles of Rose and a bottle of pastis. For our host we picked up this beautiful rustic, white bowl, handmade in France and a linen apron for cooking. For family and friends we grabbed all kinds of herbs de provence and lavender scented items. Then Michael bought me a linen dress and a cowboy hat to keep the sun off. Aw!

When we arrived back at the house, one of the guests came to greet us in the very same linen apron we had just purchased. Ooooops.

Provence-La Maison

Provence-La Maison

You’ve got to be kidding me.

That’s how I felt when we pulled into the drive of Michael’s friend’s house in the south of France.  Originally I was a little bit sad that we were going to be there for such a short amount of time.  I wanted to stop in Aix en Provence, I wanted to buy lavender and do all the other things I was told we could do there.  I really didn’t want to be stuck in a house full of people I didn’t know with no real means of escape.

What a fool I was.  This beautiful home is outside of a tiny town called Forcalquier and it is a dream.  In fact…I’m pretty sure I dreamed the entire 48 hours we were there.  Let me take the time to describe it fully.  It’s worth it.  It’s the kind of magic I don’t get to experience often, which sounds so sad (!), but really that fact just set our time spent there in relief so I could fully appreciate and enjoy it more.

The House—what a house.  There was nothing pretentious about it.  It was not ‘done up’ like some Ian Schrager hotel in Dubai.  It was simple, clean, airy, tasteful and above all elegant.  It was the kind of house that comes alive with food, people and bustling activity.  It had a rustic feel to it, but rustic like a country retreat.  Everything was white, with wood beam accents and lots and lots of linen and lavender.  The furniture was all mostly found at French road side sales, but not in even a slightly junky way, in a very romantic and sophisticated way.  The house was situated and appointed in such a way that it could catch the breezes that rippled through the valley for you.

On the first floor starting from the left and moving to the right there was a small garage that housed a lot of modern water and electric situations, then there was a big studio that was used as a bedroom while we were there.  Up a half a flight of stars was a second bedroom with a full bath and 2 twin beds that opened out into a good sized living room with a pull out sofa.  This then went into the (3rd) bedroom where we stayed with a double bed and a standing shower.  The room was breezy and cool and delicious.  We had a soft white cotton blanket and freshly laundered white linen sheets.  The sheets were so amazing I had to look at the label so I could be sure to buy one (one!) for my summer country house (in my mind).  If you have your own summer country house (in your mind or otherwise) I recommend you click this link.  John Lewis Dream Linen Flat Sheets.  I will tell you this…I never slept off jet lag better than I did on those white linen sheets in that breeze with fresh lavender from the garden sitting in our window sill.  Do I sound like a big goober going on and on?  I don’t mean to, I just want to share my experience so it feels like you were there too.

When you exited this atelier you had to head down these little stairs outside to enter the other part of the house through the kitchen.  OR you could go up this narrow hidden staircase inside…but more on that later.  Once inside the main part of the house where the kitchen was, you also had the main living room.  The kitchen had a big harvest table and chairs to sit and have coffee and continental breakfast.  There was ALWAYS someone in the kitchen doing something.  Always.  So it always smelled fantastic.  There was even a little antique chair just for the baby.

A brief pause for the food…oh my goodness…the food. There were cheese plates, fresh breads, lamb, and some sort of aubergine ratatouille. There were big, fat roasted orange slices with rosemary and brown sugar, served with homemade whipped cream. There was fresh grilled fish stuffed with lemon and herbs, fresh beans, roasted potatoes and homemade ice cream. It just felt like there was always something new to taste, not just to eat. So clearly we couldn’t leave until we found out where much of this culinary inspiration came from…luckily I was able to squeeze a few secrets out of the kitchen by distracting my prey with the baby. He has the ability to disarm all the knights in the realm!

Here is what my undercover operation unearthed…first, the River Cafe Cook Book Easy. Next, Italian Two Easy: Simple Recipes from the London River Cafe. Lastly we have Angela Hartnett. Now here’s the thing…on Amazon A Taste of Home: 200 Quick and Easy Recipes: Angela Hartnett is hard to come by, but on Amazon UK it is listed as new. A Taste of Home: 200 Quick and Easy Recipes: Amazon.co.uk: Angela Hartnett. I placed links to both sites. Do what you need to do to get it…that’s all I have to say. Those orange slices baked in brown sugar were no joke. I also included a link to her Italian recipe book, Angela Hartnett’s Cucina: Three Generations of Italian Family Cooking that is sold on the US Amazon site.

Out of the kitchen and through the living room the house opened up to a patio that faced the Alps.

There was a big outdoor sitting area, with a sofa and chairs and a table and chairs under a makeshift chandelier for al fresco dining.

Back into the living room there was a small set of stairs that led into a fantastic, carved out of stone, half bath and a laundry room.  There was also a full staircase that looked like it was suspended in space heading up to the bedrooms.  These stairs opened up onto another living room where the big TV was for watching movies and to the back of this sitting area was the master (4th) bedroom and bath.  Coming back through the sitting room you were led down a long hallway and off this lovely hallway were 3 more (so that’s 5, 6 and 7) bedrooms each with their own bathrooms.  Each room had shuttered windows that you could fling open wrapped in your linen bathrobe, with your lavender bouquet in your hand, while you waved goodbye to departing guests or welcomed new ones…sigh…At the end of the hallway was the secret staircase that lead you back into the part of the house where we stayed and brought you full circle.  I could just keep going round and round all day.

Outside the house, just off the back terrace where the al fresco dining happened, there was a hammock and a tree swing.  We like.

Walking up just off the left of the terrace was a great daybed covered with flour sack pillows.  The view from said daybed was again, of the Alps.

Heading up around the the side of the house was another al fresco dining table and chairs situated next to the kitchen windows.  This gave the house to ability to have a ‘pass through’ kitchen window.  It was here you would place the coffee or tea or nutella on the window sill for someone at the table to pick up.

Walk away from all this…(if you can) and follow a little gravel path to the east and you will see another daybed and two more hammocks and then you will find your way to the salt water swimming pool…c’est magnifique.

By Order of the British Empire

We are all sick. The boys have been coughing for weeks already and I can’t seem to get off of an airplane without being diagnosed with consumption 3 days later. So this week has been filled with nothing but amoxicillin, honey and lemon. But that doesn’t mean we haven’t been enjoying our little sick ward…

We had fun surfing the interwebs looking for the perfect hotel to stay in in Paris for the one night we’re there before we head to Provence.

We ALMOST thought to splurge and stay at the Ritz for one night just so the baby could have his first official swimming lesson in their over the top, ridiculous pool (see photo below). A friend of ours smacked us back into reality by reminding us that’s what photo-shop is for. Fine. Kill my dreams Schneider. Meanwhile we found a much cooler (cheaper), chic hotel in an area a little more conducive to our lives. I suppose in my next life when I need a Mercedes S class to meet me at the plane door, I can call on the Ritz then. Hotel La Belle Juliette Paris is what we decided on because they have a little pool, but we came close to staying in this hidden little gem Hôtel Particulier Montmartre.

Fabrice Rambert, Courtesy of the Hotel Ritz Paris

We also received our address for our apartment dans Paris. 2 Rue Chabanais. It’s nothing fancy BUT, instead of dropping us in corporate housing (little business suites with fridges) they sought out this little flat for our little family so we can have a kitchen and washer/dryer in our space. Nice! Plus we’re in the 2me arrondissement which is very safe and clean and posh. Our Parisian friend Marienne took a walk by the property a few days ago to make sure of the area for us, she said we will be very pleased, but our credit cards might not be as there are many nice shops.  The link below will give you a little tour of the flat.

Lastly, this week we have found ourselves one degree away from Her Majesty the Queen of England, not just once, but 3 times! We decided it’s a sign that things are looking up.

1—We had a visit from our friend from England. He is a scholar, author, curator, Oxford man. He is in New York to set up an exhibit on Percy Bysshe Shelley at the New York Public Library and we just think that is so cool. We went to lunch and then took a little jaunt to the Apple Store where he kept repeatedly referring to his Blackberry. He realized his error and said he suddenly feared for his life, that he knew the omnipotent Steve Jobs must have heard him somehow. But then he relaxed as he recalled saying something out of place when he was having tea at Buckingham Palace and no harm befell him.

Me: (WHAT? Tea at Buckingham Palace?)  Oh how lovely, how often do you have tea at Buckingham Palace?

Him: ‘Twice a year.’

Me: (Twice a YEAR?)   Oh, I assume you’ve met the Queen personally?

Him:  ‘Well, I do all the books for the Royals, but I don’t think she knows who I am.’

Me:  (WHAT? All the books? That’s crazy!) Oh brilliant. Let me ask you, are you allowed to look her directly in the eye when you speak to her?

Him:  ‘Of course! But you musn’t turn your back on her. That would be considered rude.’

(!!??)

2—As I was looking up some information on a certain ‘Producer’ who shall remain nameless, I stumbled upon Michael’s colleague’s name, the one we are going to visit in Provence. And as it turns out, he was knighted last year. (!) He is now a Sir. So Michael sent him an email to congratulate him and then asked if it was alright if we turned our backs on him if we promised to do it slowly, so as not to startle him.

3—Michael was coming home from a jog around Central Park when he sees none other than Sir Paul McCartney

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(that’s right, also knighted (!)) strolling in front of the Museum of Natural History with one of his granddaughters. The world weary Michael O’Donnell, friend to celebrities, knights and aristocrats, loves Paul McCartney so much and was so excited and freaked out about seeing him that he hid behind a tree. That’s right, Michael O’Donnell was so googly eyed that he hid behind a tree, and there he pretended to stretch so he could just stare at his idol until he faded away into the sunset…

July-Another Spot on the UWS

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Since it is still a mystery as to where we may land come October, we have decided to embrace our homelessness for the next few months and become vagabonds. But we’ve decided to make the most of it and become fancy vagabonds. To start, some friends were kind enough to let us come stay in their pretty apartment for the month of July and August up until we leave for Paris.  So say bye bye first temporary UWS apt and hello 2nd temporary UWS apartment.

I will tell you this dear Reader, we LOVE this apartment. doorman building, elevator, laundry in the basement, nice sized living room, an eat-in kitchen (dishwasher!), 2 bedrooms and views of the Belleclaire Hotel (I’ve always been a big fan of that building). Plus you can hear the church bells ring from Collegiate down the street where the baby will go to school one day. Heh Heh Heh. No, I’m serious. But the best part about this building is that it’s not NEW. It’s a pre-war building—1920s I think, but it’s well maintained and just nice…lovely…civilized. Plus, I’m not going to lie, it’s nice to be right next to Fairway again…sorry Zabar’s….I will always love your housewares.

On the road to increasing the civilized nature of our homelessness, Michael was talking to an old colleague and Paris came up.  He said, ‘you have to come stay at my house in the south of France so I can see you and meet your family.’  I swear he really said that, Michael showed me the email. So after much debate (2 seconds worth), we decided to accept his gracious invitation and figure out how to make it happen. So now we’re leaving for Paris on Sunday, August 7th, traveling to Provence the 9th-11th, Michael starts work on Cabaret back in Paris on Friday the 12th. Eeeeeeeeee!…we’re getting very excited. Who cares if we don’t know where we’re living September 1st? Not me. Why would you think I would care about that?

Level 9 and Other Life Circumstances

Many things happened this month that could be determined as amazing (because they are amazing) or stressful (because they are also stressful).

A brief list:

#1—The baby’s lead levels are down to 9!!!  Hooooray!!  Let’s review the numbers:

0-3—Normal

Anything below 10 is no longer considered lead poisoning, but rather lead exposure.  Whew…we are getting there!  Oh our little guy.

#2—Michael was offered a job setting the choreography for Cabaret in Paris for the last 3 weeks of August and the baby and I get to go with him!  Hoooray!

#3—Michael has also been put on hold for a potentially awesome job that would start in October.  Michael has had and has been put in the running for some awesome jobs in his life, and I just know another one is about to come around the bend soon, BUT—this is show business.  So we count on nothing.  Nothing is done until a contract has been signed.  The sticky widget though is we’re not sure where this job, if he gets it, might set him down.  So we aren’t entirely sure if we should sign a lease for an apartment for July or hold off for the moment.  Eeeeeeeeeek!  Who knows?

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