Eat Up Charleston

April 5, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: Charleston, children, culture, family, food, friends, NYC, reviews 6 Comments

So of course, Emily, our foodie friend, once again bestowed a list on us for treats to be sure to get into your belly if you ever find yourself down in Charleston. FAIR WARNING: Nothing is low calorie here. Nothing. Not one thing. So good luck with that.

oysters at The Ordinary

See Emily’s words below with a few of my notes in bold:

Husk – Famous chef (Sean Brock) who is using nothing but local ingredients, right down to the chocolate and flour… He had a huge profile piece in the New Yorker. It’s the place to go in Charleston. Go there for lunch, brunch or dinner. It’s in an old Victorian home in the historic district and is utterly charming. And the food is delicious.

Of course I took for granted that it is the best place in town and was never able to get a table. Meow.

Cypress – Where Husk is old school, this place is modern. Very cool restaurant conveniently located in town. I recommend getting the patty melt. It’s a burger sandwich type thing that’s totally addictive. Oh my goodness so good. Rich and filling. Best to share. Of course there are a hundred other things on the menu that are winners too.

she wasn’t lying!

WildFlour Pastry for sticky buns on Sundays! They are out of control. Go early, people literally line up for them. The woman who runs this place, Lauren Mitterer, is awesome and usually covered in flour and butter. It’s tiny and they have yummy pastries and pot de crèmes, key lime pies, but the sticky buns – on Sundays only — are to die for.

You could actually die from them if you had one every Sunday. But boy oh boy are they good.

Sugar Bakeshop– charming, wonderful wonderful bakery for cookies, cupcakes, etc. Even little mini bite-size tarts that are fantastic. Everything inside this tiny space feels like you’ve stepped back in time. From the glass cookie jars to the old apothecary cases filled with treats. In a residential neighborhood, run by two fun guys (an architect from NY and his partner who is originally from Charleston).

Hominy Grill – fantastic place (near Sugar Bakeshop) for all that southern food – shrimp, grits, amazing biscuits, etc. It’s a lovely fun place to go for breakfast or lunch. Yum!

Are you kidding? Tomato pudding. That’s all I need to say, plus they are really kid friendly.

Peninsula Grill for a slice of Coconut Cake. They are famous famous famous for their utterly decadent Coconut Cake. And if you are downtown, it’s walking distance from everywhere.

If you are looking for old school cocktails (read: they take 5-10 minutes to concoct your cocktail, right down to the perfect ice cube) try the Gin Joint. On the same street as Cypress.

If you have time and a car, try heading out to Bowens Island (they open at 5pm) for the ultimate seafood shack experience. Super fun!

The Ordinary under a full moon.

NOOOO!!! They are closed on Sundays so we missed this spot too. It’s well worth planning ahead when you dine out in this town, it’s small so places fill up fast.

But not to be defeated we found a new spot called The Ordinary where we indulged in all kinds of expertly prepared seafood and fresh oysters. The space opened in 2012 and is in my favorite phase of a restaurant—the extra hospitable phase.

The beautiful, open space was full so we sat at the oyster bar where you can see inside the kitchen to watch the chef and staff at work, a very methodic ballet.

Chef Mike Lata spotted G at the bar and asked us if he’d like a little something special which his young son enjoys. He brought out amazing, smokey baked beans and mashed potatoes you could frost a cake with. It was a terrific experience.

The chef sending G out in a mashed potato induced coma.

This is the South

April 3, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: Boston, Charleston, children, culture, education, family, food, history, New Orleans, NYC 4 Comments

We spent our time in Charlotte, North Carolina in constant deliberation as to whether or not we should take G to Urgent Care for a persistent, week long fever of 104 (!!!). BUT—we were able to visit a playground to see this ladybug…

the Discovery Place to see this octopus…

and Michael was even able to get this killer shot of G while he peeked into a mini aquarium…

Sorry Charlotte. That’s all we had time for. We hear you have a lovely NASCAR museum. Maybe next time.

A drinking fountain in the historic battery

But then we were off to Charleston, South Carolina (where of course I got sick—but are Moms really allowed to be sick? No…not really).

Charleston. Oh Charleston. Of all the towns we’ve visited in the United States, Charleston has thrilled me the most. This is not just because I am sort of an old fogey who signs her name like she just signed the Declaration of Independence, but because it took me by surprise. I paid attention to boys in high school when I should have paid attention to my history teacher, so I was shocked to learn that Charleston is steeped not only in Civil War history, but in Revolutionary War history as well. It rivals Boston, New Orleans and even New York City for its beautifully preserved, historic architecture.

Rainbow Row-a section of restored homes

I tried to convince M to forget about us and instead to focus on the tiny alley behind us. It was once an original street

When you walk down these alleyways you find hidden, perfectly preserved houses from the 1700s.

I wish I had the time to write a fully detailed post about the many incredible sights, but alas…not only do I not, we also didn’t have the opportunity to explore nearly as much as we would have liked. It is definitely a spot Michael and I decided we would visit for a long weekend again one day when we can take the proper tourist horse and buggy ride.

Of course, not only is Charleston full to the brim with history, it is also full of incredible food…most of it sweet. In fact, one hot afternoon I ordered mint iced tea from a man who asked if I wanted sweetened or unsweetened.

‘How sweet is sweet?’ I asked.

‘This is the south,’ he said.

The Wrong Direction

March 25, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: books, Charleston, children, Cleveland, culture, family, food, humor, life, parenting 5 Comments

In addition to visiting the Home of Ralphy while we were in Cleveland, we also made it to the Great Lakes Science Center (and had a fabulous dinner with my Great Aunt, her son and his wife at The Greenhouse Tavern).

The Science Center holds many a joy for the young at heart, including a room full of rubber balls Michael was able to snap a few existential shots of:

There was also an Egyptian exhibit, replete with mysterious activities such as Archeological Digs…

Pyramid Building…

and faux Camel Back Riding…

And while I love the above photo almost more than life itself, you can imagine my surprise (horror/dismay) when my One Direction obsessed girlfriend sent me a photo of the One Direction bandmate doll someone just gave her 7 year old daughter.

Now who gave this kid a copy of Ines de la Fressange‘s Parisian Chic? Fess up!

Next we hit The Carolinas…

And So it Goes…

March 15, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Inspiration, Writing Tags: children, family, Florida, food, humor, life, Michigan 18 Comments

Today we had lunch on Sanibel Island in a divey little fish shack. Our lunch date pointed across the street and said, “Ooooo look, a Dairy Queen!”

“Dairy Queen?” I giggled, “I didn’t even know Dairy Queen existed anymore.” Then I let out sort of a weird, guttural, internal giggle.

“What?” our date asked me.

“Oh…no, nothing,” I said, “it’s just that…well, when I was a kid my Grandpa used to lean over to me just before we were about to have dinner and he would point over at my Grandma and whisper…’Watch this.’ Then he’d yell out, ‘Hey Harriet, I’m going to take the kids to Dairy Queen now.’ And she would get so mad and say, ‘Oh, come on John! We’re just about to have dinner.’ He’d look back at me with the most pleased, mischievous giggle. He did this to her at least once every summer for years and she fell for it EVERY time. I mean, every time.”

At 10pm tonight my Grandpa passed away, just a month after his wife. Hospice told my Mom over the last couple of days he had been hallucinating and talking to my Grandma. My Mom asked what he had said, but they told her out of respect, they didn’t eavesdrop. They didn’t have to, I think I have a pretty good idea of what he might have said.

Give Me Liberty (or donuts)

February 18, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: Chicago, culture, food, Philadelphia, reviews 2 Comments

this is not Independence Hall…

Man were we lazy in Philadelphia. I almost skipped writing about it all together, because we didn’t even make it to the Liberty Bell, let alone Independence Hall. We didn’t even make it to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to get a shot of G running up those famous steps like Rocky.

We just ate donuts.

I’m so embarrassed.

But I do feel it’s my patriotic duty to confess our shortcomings and move on, since our foodie friend Emily went out of her way to send us quite a comprehensive list of some of the best spots to eat in this charming town. If you find yourself here anytime soon, please utilize Emily’s fabulous list, she knows of what she speaks.

Her words below (with a few of my comments in italics):

DINNER

I love any and all of Marc Vetri’s restaurants for amazing Italian dinners — hand made pastas, pizzas and other beautifully made Italian dishes and great Italian wine:

Osteria, is the place of his that I always go to when I am in town. It’s just divine. Not too fancy. G would be welcome.

(We did actually go here for my birthday and I ate suckling pig and it was remarkable…if that’s your thing.)

He also has Amis, which is more trattoria style, so just a hair more casual.

And then there’s Vetri, which is high end amazing, and kind of a romantic anniversary dinner date place. In an old cozy town house. One of the top places in the country. You’ll spend a lot of money and it’s a fixed menu.

Zahav – you must go there (I didn’t). Fresh baked Laffa bread, hummus, and lots more. The chef is inspired.

Amada – Spanish tapas. Chef is Jose Garces, who is an Iron Chef and has a bunch of lovely restaurants in town.

garcesgroup.com

Fork – suggested by my friend who is a Philly native foodie.

BURGERS

Village Whiskey – gets crowded at lunchtime. Old fashioned masculine place with a long bar and booths. Huge delicious build-your-own burgers and other yummy sides and snacks. And a huge whiskey menu.

(We did go here. A charming, tiny place with charming staff. They only had room for me to stand at a marble bar to eat lunch, but they let G sit on the bar in a window nook. He was thrilled. The burgers were delicious, the fries were made with duck fat, plus they pickle everything—and if you watch Portlandia that will make you giggle.)

villagewhiskey.com

SANDWICHES

DiNics: famous, in Reading Terminal, which you must visit anyway, because there are lots of places to eat and lots of stalls to shop for trinkets and kitchen supplies and chocolates.

(Did not make it to DiNics, but the Reading Terminal is a must. It’s like a food and trinkit bazaar. Great for little ones to run through.)

GUTBUSTERS:

Tony Luke’s – My personal favorite Philly cheesesteak.

Sweet Elizabeth’s. For wonderful cupcakes. Of course!

Federal Donuts – they make Coffee, Fried Chicken and Donuts.

(and all we needed was for this place to be around the corner from our hotel room to simply do us in…)

federaldonuts.com

If you’re heading to Chicago any time soon, be sure to check out the Cheezeborger, Cheezeborger post for some more of Emily’s (and Dad’s) inspired food recommendations.

I Do Dis

January 21, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: art, Chicago, children, culture, family, food, Kansas City, parenting, Paris, reviews, Washington DC Leave a comment

Come back in time with me for a moment won’t you??

All the way back to November 2012…eeeeeek. Ages ago.

Just before we left Chicago to head to Kansas City for a week, G saw an ice skating rink.

“I do dis,” he said.

“No sweetie, when you’re older,” I replied.

“I do dis.”

“Sweetie, let’s wait for Papa before we go ice skating ok?”

“No, I do dis.”

“Love, I don’t think you really understand how slippery it is and how thin the blades are on the shoes you have to wear.”

“I do dis. I go. I go. I do dis.”

“No.”

“Yes. I go.”

He was so determined, I had to peek into the skate rental stand just to see if they even had skates his size.

They did.

So…we did dis.

Then we went to Kansas City and fell in love with a few things below:

#1-The Hotel Phillips

commandopera.com

The hotel we stayed in was built in the 1930s, so it was grand and plush with that old world feel Michael and I go crazy for.

#2-Lego Land.

The guys had a blast. They had rides and a room full of nothing but those Duplo blocks that are sturdier for littler kids. They were gone all day.

#3-Aixois.

A Brasserie!!! And not just a Brasserie, but a Brasserie that rivals some in Paris. While the guys headed to Lego Land, I headed to Aixois and my waitress told me one of their secrets…they have some of the best beef on the planet. SOOOO…lunch was maybe the best steak sandwich I’ve ever had, roasted tomato soup and a glass of Cotes du Rhone.

Perfect for some much needed ‘me’ time.

(FULL DISCLOSURE: Before I had G and became a full time Mom, I used to silently judge Mothers who didn’t work and constantly spoke to me dreamily about ME time. ’ME time? BAH!’ I would chortle to myself, ‘I don’t have any ME time!’ Oh, yes I did. I did. I had so much, so much me time and I didn’t even know it. Please feel free to silently tell me, ‘I told you so.’)

#4-The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art

Monet—van Gogh—etc. etc. What’s not to like?

nelson-atkins.org

Next stop was DC.

In Defense of Goop

January 8, 2013 By ElizabethWolf in Inspiration Tags: blogs, family, food, friends, life, NYC, reviews 6 Comments

Boy, do I get mixed reactions when people find out what a fan I am of Goop.

So, I have decided once and for all to explain, with my husband’s photos, how much the fancy lifestyle blog has impacted my life.

If you don’t know, and you may very well not, Goop is Gwyneth Paltrow‘s lifestyle blog and while it gets over one million views a week, it is often met with giddy ridicule from the internet’s snarkier set.

I understand…to a degree. Ms. Paltrow is fancy, sometimes too fancy, which leaves her open to some very, ‘she’s so out of touch’ snark. When too fancy and too snarky meet, much havoc can be wreaked. And while I, myself, can sometimes enjoy a good snarky laugh, I feel I lost the ability to do so with any enjoyment when I left my twenties, or rather when my twenties so cruelly left me. In fact, my twenties are now so far behind me, I feel I can’t afford to roll my eyes at anyone’s efforts, especially Ms. Paltrow’s, instead I feel the need to hang onto her every word just out of sheer reverence.

Yes, I said reverence. I know. That is quite a word to use for someone who pops out some recipes and some $800 gold hoop earring collaborations (which, by the way, along with all of her other fashion collaborations, are far from my financial grasp). I am aware that Ms. Paltrow is not in Libya brokering world peace, but as Lord Grantham says, ‘Everyone has their part to play.’ I like to leave the world peace brokering to the deeply revered Hillary, and while she is out there embroiled in serious change making on a macro level, I believe Gwyneth makes changes to people’s lives on a micro level.

How?

Well, first of all, she gets stuff done. This alone is something I find tremendously inspiring, even though I know she has lots of help. I know, I know, I know. Trainers, chefs, nannies, blog staff, I know! I know it’s easier for her to get stuff done than maybe it is for you or me to get stuff done. But there are just as many fancy, fancy ladies out there who have just as much privilege as Gwyneth, if not more, and they do not use their extra time to share all of their clever ideas and privileged information with anyone. I think proof of this can be found in the Real Housewives franchise.

What else?

FOOD. Gwyneth Paltrow has it seriously going on with food. This is where things start to get real. Her blog and then her cookbook, single handedly changed my entire perspective on food. Food revelations come to different people from different places at different times, but let me explain to you, why after 4 years, I still prepare every recipe that comes out of her fully staffed kitchen.

The recipes are simple-I am not a cook. While my Italian step mother got the ball rolling for me, I am continually mocked by all my friends who watch me still measure out every ingredient. Most of Goop’s recipes have no more than 5 easily measurable ingredients.

The recipes are elegant-Simplicity doesn’t mean boring. There is nothing better than a dish prepared to showcase its natural flavors. We often make a Goop Whole Roasted Fish stuffed with lemon and herbs and served with an anchovy based salsa verde. It is so good we can hardly stand it. Michael and I salivate over it every single time.

‘Why is it so good?’ he asks me, ‘It’s just anchovy, olive oil and herbs right? And what else? Magic?’

The recipes are made with ingredients that will make you healthy-Parsnips and carrots? Ack. No thanks. Roast them for 20 minutes with dijon mustard, olive oil and agave? Yes please. Delicious. If you give her a chance she will introduce (or re-introduce) you to real food, she will teach you how to prepare it in simple ways, she will get you away from preservatives, and sugar and your late night bowls of Joe’s O’s. She will stock pile your life with simple recipes you can concoct out of everyday ingredients, anytime, without breaking the bank. She will also help you make some simple upgrades where it counts the most…inside your tummy.

For this reason, my crush on Goop lives on, for what are we if not what we eat?

And LASTLY. Proof.

What? There’s more? I know, I can’t even believe you’re still reading this. Snoooooozevillle! But stay with me.

We had all sorts of Christmas plans change this year, friends and family stranded last minute, an impending move, yadda, yadda, yadda. The next thing we knew, we found ourselves with one week to plan a Christmas dinner for 12 people in our apartment. A recent issue of Goop entitled—FEAST—came to my mind. If everyone was responsible for one element we could prepare it together.

goop.com

And we did. It took planning and effort of course, but each person had their part to play to produce a 5 course meal with affordable wine pairings out of one tiny kitchen in a New York apartment. It was a perfect, festive, Christmas night. The food was simple and delicious, the company was cozy and warm and the laughter was loud. We were one little group whose lives were made brighter for Goop’s efforts.

*all photos above, except where noted, were taken by Michael

**we did not listen to Coldplay while we cooked

Cheezeborger, Cheezeborger

December 10, 2012 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: blogs, Chicago, culture, food, Les Miserables, reviews, Washington DC 4 Comments

Where to eat in Chicago?

I’m sorry to say, you have to live there to hit every great spot that was recommended to us. However, I feel it is my moral, culinary duty to share this list of restaurants with you—just in case you plan to hit the Windy City any time soon. Even though we only made it to a fraction of this list ourselves, it should not go to waste as it is compiled from 3 people who are highly trained, professional eaters (and drinkers) and 1 local Chicagoan.

Let’s start with Emily. Emily lives in New York City. She is a television producer and has, at many points in her life, produced television shows about food. So naturally, you want to take her advice.

Her list, her words:

chicagoreader.com

Oysters and fantastic draft beer (and more) at The Publican. She’s right. I made it here. I ate pork rinds, oysters, sardines on toast, cauliflower topped with prosciutto crumbs, homemade beer and milk panna cotta. COME ON!!

Classic, superbly made Macaroons and fresh baked croissants at Vanille Patisserie.

Cookies of ALL concoctions (like brownie chunks and potato chips in a cookie) in a fun retro setting with 70′s music at The Cookie Bar. Tried to go..NOTE-Closed on Sunday and Monday. Looks really fun inside.

If you can handle gelato in the cold, go to Black Dog Gelato for some really divine flavors.

The Purple Pig-It’s on Magnificent Mile and is great — small plates, huge wine list, always hopping. Tried to go early on a Sunday…packed! Menu looked great.

Urban Belly-Asian noodles and dumplings. Wonderful stuff, yummy ramen, very casual (shared long tables) super cool.

Xoco-Authentic Mexican cafe (Rick Bayless, famous chef)

sally ryan-new york times

with great sandwiches made to order and yummy hot chocolates with sweet churros that are made all day long and the most delicious ever. Open early and late. Went for breakfast. We had breakfast empanadas, huevos rancheros, spicy hot chocolate (no coffee) and churros. Fantastic! Just because I don’t usually eat doughnuts doesn’t mean I won’t.

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate-The name is a bit misleading because it’s really all about the rest of the food. Nice family place. The chef is a former pastry chef turned restauranteur and she gets nominated for awards every year.

Avec-This is the same owner as Publican but more upscale. Lovely, spare space. Really good dining.

The Girl and the Goat-I actually haven’t been but it is supposed to be really good and always gets written up, and I love the name. The former pastry chef opened Black Dog Gelato.

Crisp-Korean fried chicken. Foodies love this cheap eats place, say it’s the best fried chicken.

wikipedia.org

If you are downtown, and looking for a really old world experience, kind of fun— the famous Berghoff. We went to the cafe for lunch. Old world is the best way to describe it. We had Berghoff root beer and eggplant parm in the most cozy, Christmasy, German dining room around.

Do you like hot dogs? Go to Hot Doug’s.

Next we have Sara. Sara also lives in New York and works at a farm in the Hudson Valley. She pioneers programs for sustainable farming and cider production. She also eats in delicious restaurants all over the country in the name of the food industry. Naturally I listen to her advice as well.

She says: ‘They are all a bit fancy, but I did eat at Publican and it was really fun.’

Her List:

Publican (see above)

Hot Doug’s (also see above)

Perennial Virant (by Lincoln Park. ALMOST made it for brunch—it looked so cozy inside.)

Graham Elliot

Frontera Grill (a classic)-(This spot is also run and owned by chef Rick Bayless who runs Xoco—see above)

Then there is my Father. While Dad is not a food professional, he has sort of an honorary degree from the University of Eating and Enjoying Food & Wine. His advice on food is analogous to Inès de La Fressange‘s advice on fashion: Classic.

His List:

businessinsider.com

Shaw’s Crab House-We made it here on our last night in Chicago and it’s safe to say it is my favorite spot in town. Dark wood, crimson leather, black leather tufted booths—classic Chicago. We made it for oyster happy hour, salads and one glass each of Caymus Conundrum.

Rosebud-Italian food. Of course.

Billy Goat Tavern-While Dad didn’t tell me to go here, he said I could if I wanted to. How could I not want to? The famous SNL sketch of Cheezeborger, Cheezeborger, Coke? And the place still exists? While perhaps maybe it shouldn’t—this photo was entirely worth the visit.

Lastly we have Kit, a reader who I do not know, so I’m not going to make any assumptions about her eating and drinking life—BUT she is a Chicago local, sent me a comprehensive restaurant list and keeps a blog about food. So—draw your own conclusions. To learn more about Kit, you can visit her at thekittchen.com.

Her list, her words :

For the best brunch ever go to Southport Grocery. It is just north of the Southport Brown Line stop. The neighborhood is really great and filled with fun boutiques to shop around.

If you like Mexican food check out Rick Bayless’s Xoco (see above). Or Big Star in Wicker Park. Big Star was just named one of the best taco joints in the US and it is cheap.

If you like Italian try Volare or Prosecco.

If you like speakeasy style places check out Bavettes or Untitled. Bavettes has great food too!

If you want steak try Gibsons or Hugo’s Frog Bar.

And then—to wrap it all up—we actually stumbled on a few places all by our little old, barely trained, unprofessional selves—

Bin 36-cheese, small plates, wine by glass, bottle or flight. It was hard to eat there and not miss Divine Bar in New York.

The Drake Hotel at the Palm Court-La di da. One of the fabulous women in Les Mis had her last show in Chicago. So another fabulous woman arranged a surprise ladies tea at the Palm Court. What an old school treat. The Drake is an older, posh hotel at the top of the Magnificent Mile and it was made all the better for being decked out for Christmas.

AND FINALLY!

The Aviary—They make cocktails here that are essentially science experiments. Plan ahead. It’s by reservation only.

theaviary.com

When this post publishes, we’ll be in Washington DC. Any favorite spots there you think we should hit?

Houston, We Have a Problem

November 19, 2012 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: Chicago, food, New Orleans, Texas 6 Comments

While the weather in downtown Houston was absolutely gorgeous, and while there was much to see and do, my stomach was absolutely destroyed.

Shredded. Annihilated.

It’s not you Houston, it’s me.

You see, it started way back in New Orleans. I was younger then, reckless. I know better now.

Things I don’t do:

-Drink Cocktails (maybe 1 in a 3-6 month period at most)

-Eat Rabbit

-Eat Donuts (French or otherwise)

-Eat sliced pork tenderloin over sweet potato smash with Covey Rise Farm Brussels sprouts, and bacon lardoons with crispy leeks & truffled trotter jus

Things I did in New Orleans:

-Monday-Drank Mojito. Ate Rabbit

-Tuesday-Drank Pimm’s Cup. Ate Donuts (French)

-Wednesday-Drank Mint Julip. Ate sliced pork tenderloin over sweet potato smash with Covey Rise Farm Brussels sprouts, and bacon lardoons with crispy leeks & truffled trotter jus

I’m in Chicago now, on a juice and stuffed pizza cleanse.

Nawlins

November 12, 2012 By ElizabethWolf in Travel Tags: Chicago, children, culture, family, food, history, New Orleans, reviews, Texas 7 Comments

In about a week’s worth of time we hit much of what spicy, saucy, New Orleans has to offer. As much as I wanted to dig into the town and do a sort of rock n roll/haunted Halloween insider’s guide, my stomach started to hurt after about day 2…and I have a toddler. The two main things to do in New Orleans are eat, and listen to jazz all night. The former two prohibited the latter two, so instead, I bring you the same New Orleans guide brought to you by most. What sets it apart from the others can only be Michael’s fabulous photography and of course…the Little Man.

THE FRENCH QUARTER

This crazy place was the first neighborhood built in New Orleans in 1718, which we can most likely agree, was a LONG time ago. Since the whole neighborhood is a protected, historic landmark, it is really enjoyable just to wander around and ogle the (mostly colonial Spanish) architecture. Any place with a tucked away garden courtyard, will transport you.

Our favorite spot in the Quarter is the Napoleon House. They built this house for the man himself in hopes of sheltering him while he was in exile. Alas, that never happened, but I think he’d be pleased to know the restaurant–now in his house–pays homage to him by using his image as the only form of decoration. We love this place, not just because it has great rice and beans, and is steeped in history, but also because it has the only vegetable in New Orleans–the cucumber in my Pimm’s cup. The Pimm’s cup is their specialty cocktail, by the way. What would Napoleon think about that? I wondered. But then I realized they say Pimm’s is their speciality to throw you off the scent of their real, and most likely Napoleon approved, specialty—The Sazerac.

The other French Quarter classic is Cafe du Monde. Beignets doused in powdered sugar. Chicory flavored coffee. It’s always packed. Why wouldn’t it be?

The Steamboat Natchez takes you for a ride on the Mississippi and is about as touristy as you can get, and also about as fun. G explored all three levels of the ship, but was mainly mesmerized by the giant paddle wheel. He was then the only dancer on the dance floor when The Dukes of DixieLand played live jazz in the ship’s dining room. He was having so much fun they dedicated a song to him…The Muskrat Ramble.

THE GARDEN DISTRICT

What a treat to visit New Orleans’ poshest neighborhood on the day of Halloween. This part of the town was built when people wanted to get away from the French Quarter and have a little (a lot) more room to breathe. The area is famous for its huge Victorian mansions (some haunted), which were mostly decked out for potential trick-or-treaters.

Below are just a tiny handful of examples of the grandeur of the period.

The Commander’s Palace is the restaurant to go to in the Garden District. We did not plan to dine here that day, as you need reservations, no T-Shirts, no shorts and close toed shoes. But we decided to throw caution to the wind and try our luck. Not only did we get a table in the garden, a mint julip and the Commander’s Luncheon, we also got to watch ladies who lunch have their annual Halloween luncheon in the glass enclosed patio. They wore embellished witch hats and grew more and more exuberant as their 25 cent martinis (limit 3) took effect. Fantastic entertainment. My luncheon was delicious, expertly prepared and probably contained more cholesterol than I’ve ingested in the last 3 years.

yikes! Get a load of these two!

Directly across the street from the restaurant is the Lafayette Cemetery, which is a big draw (partially because they filmed scenes here for Anne Rice’s very popular Interview With a Vampire). Cemeteries are not entirely my thing, even the glamorous, old Père Lachaise in Paris wore me out after a bit, BUT…it was Halloween, so when in Rome. As we walked in I heard a woman say under her breath, but loud enough for me to hear, “That’s strange to bring a little boy into a cemetery.”

This surprisingly elicited a giggle from me.

Is it?, I wondered? I hadn’t really thought about it. I actually thought guided tours of cemeteries (like the one this woman was a part of) as an adult, when you didn’t personally know anyone buried there, were strange. But, maybe it was a little strange to take him to a cemetery, and perhaps the skeleton shirt he was wearing didn’t help our case.

THE WAREHOUSE DISTRICT

While this area is primarily filled with businesses, it is also lined with beautiful art galleries and houses the best restaurant you could ask for in New Orleans, Cochon. It’s worth going for the atmosphere alone. It has sort of a steamy, swampy, Streetcar Named Desire feel to it…yellow light…shadows of slow moving ceiling fans. The food is delicious, cajun, southern cooking. Pork, dumplings, rabbit. Turnips, alligator, mac and cheese. It’s not so good because they do anything outrageous to it, it’s so good because it tastes like it’s not just made with expertise, but with love. I mean it. It tastes like whoever made your dish made it for you because they absolutely love you. Has anyone ever made you homemade chicken noodle soup just because they love you? Cochon tastes like that.

cochon

And of course, right on our street, like a gift from up above was the Louisiana Children’s Museum. Yet another incredible playground for the little guy. When and if we ever settle down somewhere again, I will have to build a house inside a Children’s Museum. Louisiana has a great one, I’ll tell you that. It was so big and so much fun we had to go twice. We had to. Someone made us.

As I write this post I’m nestled in bed in Houston, Texas with horrible indigestion. When this post publishes, we’ll be en route to Chicago.

La Maison du Loup

it's not French, but it's cute

Tag Archives: food