We spent our time in Charlotte, North Carolina in constant deliberation as to whether or not we should take G to Urgent Care for a persistent, week long fever of 104 (!!!). BUT—we were able to visit a playground to see this ladybug…
and Michael was even able to get this killer shot of G while he peeked into a mini aquarium…
Sorry Charlotte. That’s all we had time for. We hear you have a lovely NASCAR museum. Maybe next time.
A drinking fountain in the historic battery
But then we were off to Charleston, South Carolina (where of course I got sick—but are Moms really allowed to be sick? No…not really).
Charleston. Oh Charleston. Of all the towns we’ve visited in the United States, Charleston has thrilled me the most. This is not just because I am sort of an old fogey who signs her name like she just signed the Declaration of Independence, but because it took me by surprise. I paid attention to boys in high school when I should have paid attention to my history teacher, so I was shocked to learn that Charleston is steeped not only in Civil War history, but in Revolutionary War history as well. It rivals Boston, New Orleans and even New York City for its beautifully preserved, historic architecture.
Rainbow Row-a section of restored homes
I tried to convince M to forget about us and instead to focus on the tiny alley behind us. It was once an original street
When you walk down these alleyways you find hidden, perfectly preserved houses from the 1700s.
I wish I had the time to write a fully detailed post about the many incredible sights, but alas…not only do I not, we also didn’t have the opportunity to explore nearly as much as we would have liked. It is definitely a spot Michael and I decided we would visit for a long weekend again one day when we can take the proper tourist horse and buggy ride.
Of course, not only is Charleston full to the brim with history, it is also full of incredible food…most of it sweet. In fact, one hot afternoon I ordered mint iced tea from a man who asked if I wanted sweetened or unsweetened.
Yes, in St. Louis we were very spoiled in our Painted Lady in Lafayette Square. Honestly we were all so happy to finally be together that we didn’t leave the house nearly as often as I thought we would. It was also fall for heaven’s sake and we had our own big, backyard with its own big tree that cascaded leaves to the ground with each gust of cool autumn wind. When we were back inside there were antique safes to crack in our ninja pajamas (with bananas for sustenance). So you tell me. How often would you leave?
That being said…I’m surprised that we actually took in so much of what St. Louis has to offer. In fact, I think we may have left quite a few stones (or Botanical Gardens) unturned.
Lafayette Park-In addition to Lafayette Square housing fantastic Painted Ladies, it also has a beautiful park we took advantage of constantly. The park was built in the 1800s as well, the oldest park in America west of the Mississippi. It has a similar layout and feel as the Public Garden in Boston which was built in the same era.
Cherokee Street-One day we headed south to check out this particular street known for its antique shops, and haunted mansions. We stopped here at the highly recommended MudHouse for coffee. And while we didn’t come away with any antique treasures, we were able to snap G’s next album cover. We like to call this one…
-Roadtrip-
The Fabulous Fox-Our first day in town, we went straight to the Fox Theatre with Michael to get a lay of the land. It is called Fabulous Fox, simply because it is fabulous. It is ginormous and decorated within an inch of its life in the most ornate fashion. It was built in 1927 and seats 4500 people. (!!) We had the little guy climb all 3 floors by himself so we could wear him down, it wore us down instead.
a bust of Victor Hugo at the Arts Museum-as if to say, ‘Welcome”
Forest Park-Smack in the middle of town is a giant park that rivals both Central Park and Golden Gate park if I do say so myself. I never did find any playgrounds in here though. You know how I feel about playgrounds. But then I realized what happens at City Museum and began to understand why you don’t need any outdoor playgrounds within a million yard radius of that place.
Among many other things, Forest Park includes a very lovely (and very digestible) Arts Museum, along with one of the best Zoos I’ve ever been to. They have a petting zoo in there for kids that is essentially 12 goats just wandering around, which is perfect for little ones. The kids can grab little brushes and have at it. G made it his mission to brush EVERY goat, no matter the obstacle.
Magic House-Of course they have a great children’s museum here. Not only was it great, it was HUGE, like a renovated Victorian mansion huge. We barely made it through the whole thing before G melted down from exhaustion. It seems like he was so much smaller when I took him to the Boston Children’s Museum in March, we only did the toddler room there. But now, now he’s off and running with the bigger kids trying to do everything they do. This is a whole new world for us, an enjoyable world, but also a world that makes us feel like we need to sit down for a minute.
The City Museum-Everybody was all, ‘Go to City Museum, go to City Museum!’
We didn’t make it there until the very last day and I’m so glad we did. It was outrageously fun, even for a sleepy-do Mommy like me. I don’t know how to describe the place, it’s like the Swiss Family Robinson Tree House, but ramped up 20 notches. There were tunnels and spelunking and ball pits, and moments were it occurred to me that somehow we had just climbed up inside the ceiling ducts ala Mission Impossible (or Die Hard depending on your age and action hero preference).
see what I mean?
The Gateway Arch-And then of course there is the good old stainless steel Gateway to the West that sits just off the Mississippi. You can see it from all over town, and while there was NO way I could go up inside of it for the view, I did feel like I really got to enjoy it every day.
Leo Reynolds-fotopedia.com
So last Monday we dove off the arch and swam down the Mississippi to New Orleans where I type this post now. By the time it posts we will be en route with the whole cast and crew via bus to Houston for a week. G is very very excited about this. There are kids in the show about 8 years old and he LOVES them.
‘I go on bus with friends,’ he says
Before we head out, 3 things:
1-Try not to love Michael for getting this Halloween costume made: Curious George and the Man with the Yellow Hat.
2. A New Orleans Preview:
3. And while I contemplated NOT sharing this video, I think many of you will be interested in it. Of course our young, hip, Brooklynite cousin Ryan-a St Louis native-sent it my way.
Due to Michael’s schedule, the little man’s schedule and my advancing years (hello 9pm bedtime), we did a lot of what we like to call—hotel livin‘ while we were in Boston. This included activities like lining up toys on shelves for photo ops…
…finding ways to make the little one giggle…
…even if that included allowing him to swipe my cosmetic bag and completely fard himself.
So this scenario didn’t really leave us with much time to go restaurant hunting, which is something I used to really like to do before I had the little man. Now I’m fine with a bowl of cereal for dinner. BUT once in awhile we left to go out to eat and I think I should share 3 unassuming little spots with you because they were so great.
First we have Four Burgers right on the Common. I know…I can’t shake my (not so) secret, dirty burger habit. But there is nothing dirty about this place. It’s fantastic. Can you guess what the concept is? Yes! Four Burgers!
This is a dream come true for me since I’m married to a fish-a-tarian. The only veggie option at Shake Shack is sort of a fried cheese ball that makes Michael feel really bad about himself. These four burgers were all so good we went there 3 times. Bah! Plus they had a great beer and wine list and really good sweet potato fries.
Best of all, the owners were in the store bringing out burgers, clearing the tables, helping in the kitchen and chatting up customers. The one I talked to (whose name I can’t remember because I’m the worst with names—I’m sorry!) was a very cool, down to earth, family guy who loves what he does and really has an interest in cleaning up the burger and fries scene a bit. I begged him to bring the store to New York, but not too close to our apartment.
Our next stop was a little fancier but no less friendly than our new friends at Four Burgers. G and I stumbled into the beautiful, historic Boston Public Library just in time for tea. The Courtyard Restaurant has this lovely high tea service from 2-4. It was 3:45. Not only did they let us sit, they brought us extra treats and took our photo. The room was pretty easy on the eyes as well. One day I will try to remember to bring more than just my iPhone camera with me to get some nicer photos.
lemon tarts are surprisingly sour
And finally, the Union Oyster House. A bit of a tourist stop? Yes. But so what? We ate it up. This place opened its doors in 1826 and is an historic landmark. It’s cozy and tiny and perfect. We got to sit upstairs in these old, wooden booths with this great amber lighting. It made you wish there was a blizzard outside…I mean, I’m glad there wasn’t, but…look how cozy…
Presentation is authentic, no pretense here…our 2 dozen oysters were just shucked and thrown on a plate. Plus everywhere you look there is a plaque denoting some interesting historical factoid, like…
This was JFK’s table. They are clearly very proud of it. As they should be.
I am fortunate enough to have fallen in love many times in my life…with boys, books, and truffle oil; wine, my husband, my son…I know it when I feel it.
I fell head over heels for the Boston Children’s Museum. It’s spectacular. Somehow, I’ve been to many a Children’s Museum in my day and this one is right up there with the champs.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First of all, the lunchroom is attached to an Au Bon Pain so no hamburgers and fries for lunch. We had black-bean burgers with avocado and a side of hummus and cucumber instead.
Yes!
Then we headed right up to the 2nd floor (out of 3) to the fabled 3 years and under room. It took us about an hour to get there because we had to stop in the children’s art gallery, then the water play room, then the kindergarten classroom…I could keep going, in fact there are so many rooms and exhibits worth mentioning, I just have to link to them here.
We spent quite a bit of time at the GIANT checker board.
Not only is everything bright and clean, but the staff came over to interact with the children from time to time to maybe show them how to use something or to inspire them to play with something in a different way. They even just came over to blow bubbles. What? Bubbles? Yes. It was fantastic.
When we finally made it to the under 3 area, G literally squealed with delight when he saw all the other kids having so much fun. The area is vast with 8 different sections including an art room, a kitchen and an indoor playground. The story room is complete with a rocking chair for 2 and a full library of children’s books and parenting books (!!).
And the best part about it? There is seating for parents along the perimeter of each section. You can just sit down and kick up your feet while your little one runs from room to room. PLUS the whole under 3 area is gated and has only what I can describe as its own door man. This watchful attendant stands guard so big kids can’t bust through and knock the little ones down and the little ones can’t escape. If they had just had a cocktail bar it would have been perfect! This type of set up really allows little ones a taste of autonomy. Plus it provides them with the ability to interact with other kids without their parents hovering over them simply because they have no other place to go. He and I both had a great time.
Suddenly in the midst of all our fun, there was an announcement that there was to be a puppet show in the kindergarten room! Hoooray! Off we went…we then still had more than half of the museum left to explore by closing time (yes, we closed the joint). I had to tear him away through sirens of wails and sobs. As I tried to calm him and get the stroller, the attendant said, ‘Don’t worry…that’s the reaction of most kids when they have to leave this museum.’
Ack. Organized tours make me so uncomfortable. They always have and they always will. I’ve just learned to live with it now. Michael, however, cannot live with it and refuses to go on any kind of organized tour anywhere, ever. But there is so much history in Boston and I wanted to get the lay of the land so I thought…well…while he’s at rehearsal, I’ll take the classic Nanny Rigsby approach and go on the Boston Duck Tour.
DUKW converted into a tour bus for the famous Boston Duck Tour. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The Duck Tours are actually conducted on military ducks which are half land vehicle/half sea vehicle, like a platypus or Aqua Man. They used ‘ducks’ to storm the beaches at Normandy. Again, like the hotel that used to be a jail, this does not conjure up terribly romantic images. But part of the fun is that after you drive around town, you get to drive into the Charles River (this is where the half boat part comes in).
Be warned, if you ever decide to go on the duck tour yourself their website is so intense and cranky that I almost decided not to go. It’s a little tricky to navigate and there are all kinds of ‘no-exceptions’ rules. This is for a reason though. The tours are WILDLY popular. You really do need to book them 30 days in advance. Because it was mid-week in March we were able to book the day before, but the whole boat was full by the time we got there.
A Boston Duck Boat tour boat in the Charles River (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Personally, I found the tour to be about 30 minutes too long, but that might be because I had a toddler asleep on top of me and I had to support his entire body weight. And even though the tour had a few of those scripted, guided tour jokes that make you want to look at your feet, our guide was pretty funny. No—our guide was really funny. I got a great understanding of the city from him and a few tidbits of history.
AND…we had to get on the Duck at Boston’s Museum of Science, where we were greeted by this guy…
EEEEEEK!!! He’s life sized. G looked up at him and said, ‘Oh-No.’
Here’s a brief overview of the most interesting tid-bits about Boston from our (well worth it) tour, and a few things we stumbled on on our own.
This original State House was built way back in the day (1717) and has a little balcony on it where the Declaration of Independence was read out to the people for the first time.
“Old State House”, Boston (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
This is also the site of the Boston Massacre (1770) which helped fuel the Revolutionary War. The story changes depending on which side you were on. Some say that English Soldiers randomly opened fire on an innocent crowd of Bostonians. Our tour guide told us what actually happened (?) was the English were attacked by a Boston gang that turned into a mob so they acted in self defense. Either way, the colonialists were really tired of the English by then, so it was a story that didn’t go away. It spurred future Revolutionary events AND proves that the political tool of ‘spinning’ events in one’s favor goes WAAAAAAAYYYY back.
My favorite part of the Old State House is the Lion/Unicorn statues on top.
When we walked past them earlier in the week, I pointed them out and said, ‘Look at those crazy statues. They look like relics of England don’t they?’ Then the tour guide told us, they were originally symbols of England (yay me!) and when the victory of the Revolutionary War was announced people were SO excited they literally climbed the building, tore the statues down and BURNED them! Then they thought, ‘hey…you know…we actually like those statues.’ So they were cleaned up and put back.
This tavern claims to be the oldest in America. Our guide told us it is also the only place you can enjoy a Sam Adams beer while you look out at his grave. (!) Samuel Adams is buried across the street in the Granary burial ground (so is Mother Goose, or is she?).
This brings us into the Back Bay section of Boston which was built on a landfill in the 1800s. The extended land took 40 years to complete. It’s about 200 years older than the original town of Boston, which includes the Boston Common, founded in the 1600s. It’s very fancy, but will always be in the fancier shadow of Beacon Hill.
(photo credit: Wikipedia)
The public space of Copley Square was donated by John Singleton Copley who was a prominent (and very dashing) portrait artist from Boston (left). It’s adjacent to the Trinity Church. Across the street on one side is the John Hancock building (designed by I.M. Pei). Across the street on another side is the Boston Public Library (worth a peek inside for the architecture). In designing the Hancock building, I.M. Pei decided he couldn’t compete with the architecture of the church, so he made the building out of mirrored glass to reflect the historic landmark. It’s a very nice effect.
This posh street is like the Madison Avenue or Blvd St. Germaine of Boston. Fancy shops, places to eat and art galleries all mix in with 19th century architecture.
This avenue runs parallel to Newbury St, and is lined with beautiful examples of 19th century homes. The two roads running side by side are analogous to Madison and Park avenues in New York City. Commonwealth begins at the entrance to Boston’s Public Garden, which is marked by this guy…
George Washington (photos by Michael y’all)
Michael also snapped a few photos for us of homes at the base of the Commonwealth (in spring, no less), and one of G bringing me a leaf on the fairy lit Commonwealth Mall.
I LOVE the Public Garden. We were lucky enough to show up in this freaky spring snap so we got to see the garden at it’s best. It has manicured lawns, topiary hedges and flower beds. It’s never teeming with people, so it always has an intimate feel to it, like there’s room to walk and breathe and soak it all in. Founded in the late 1800s (it’s part of the Back Bay), it’s a good 200 years older than it’s neighbor, the Boston Common. Charles Street divides the two parks.
(amazon.com)
This garden holds special meaning for me because as a little girl one of my very favorite books was Make Way for Ducklings by Robert McCloskey…I honestly didn’t realize until recently this book was based on a family of ducks who lived in this very real Public Garden. If you were lucky enough to have someone read you stories every night before bed, you know how they get burned into your brain. To see-in real life-the pond and the little island where the ducks ended up living was nothing short of magical. Their drawings in the book are indelible to me. They have a statue now to commemorate the ducks and they claim it has never been professionally polished because children sit on the ducks so often. G, however, tried to pick one up.
commemorate one of the first battles of the Revolutionary War had a lot of financial trouble. To see it through to completion one Sarah Josepha Hale (right) organized a craft fair and bake sale that raised 30 thousand dollars. That was a LOT of money back then. Here’s to the power of craft fairs.
This is the beautiful space Les Mis lives in for 3 weeks. Michael stood on the stage for us and snapped a few photos of what it would be like to look out into the audience…
Interesting Nerdy Fact: The Boston Opera house was originally The Boston Theatre. Edwin Booth performed here the night his brother, John Wilkes Booth, assassinated Abraham Lincoln. Yikes!
It’s like a set of a New England town, but I guess that’s because it actually is a New England town.
"A plan of the town of Boston with the intrenchments &ca. of His Majesty's forces in 1775, from the observations of Lieut. Page of His Majesty's Corps of Engineers, and from those of other gentlemen." (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Coming from the Mid-West, New York is as close to New England as I’ve ever been and that was originally settled by the Dutch. I’ve always had these ideas of New England towns in my head…so Boston is that idea realized. Why I’ve lived in NYC for 13 years and never bothered to travel to Boston is beyond me. It’s fantastic. Michael’s here with Les Miserables, for 3 weeks, so we thought, let’s go visit him! A quick hop down to Penn Station, a jump onto the Acela and three hours later we were here.
What we’ve discovered so far is that we love it.
First of all, it’s spring. So that’s nice. The weather is in the 70s which is perfect for a walking town. Michael doesn’t have to be to rehearsal until 1 so our mornings have been spent in the hotel room having coffee, doing yoga, playing with the baby and eating our first breakfast. Then we head out to the Boston Common for a walk and second breakfast.
The Boston Common is officially the country’s first public park (some argue, the world’s first public park). It was purchased by the Puritans in the 1600s for $150.00 from Boston’s first European settler. All kinds of crazy things have happened here…cow grazing, witch trials, speeches by Martin Luther King, hangings, riots and concerts by Judy Garland. The list goes on.
Once we send Michael to work around 1230, the baby and I go on adventures and/or nap.
Our first big adventure was Charles Street. This is an adorable street that sends you right up along Beacon Hill. Beacon Hill is a very old/very elite part of town where the likes of John Hancock lived (presently John Kerry lives here) and lots of other Boston society types. It’s simply charming. There are narrow, tree lined streets with gas burning street lamps and rows of brownstones and town houses. Charles Street, named after King Charles of England, houses little shops and hotels and places to eat.
It is Easter time, the greatest time of year for darling, little chocolates and Beacon Hill Chocolates had a HUGE assortment of handmade goodies. G picked out a cute little bunny head on a stick.
We also went to check out this hotel which used to be a jail. (!) It’s run by Starwood now, a purveyor of high end hotels and is really beautiful inside, but there’s something…well…pretty creepy about it! Jail doesn’t conjure up the most romantic of images…who’s with me?
My other favorite little shop for gifts and goodies was this place, Black Ink, loaded floor to ceiling with fun little treasures. I found these great Crumpled City Jr. maps from Palomar, which I’m sure are old news, but not to me!
They are spill proof, tear proof and awesome. Their maps for kids are colorful and bright and point out a lot of good spots for kids to go. I grabbed the NYC one for the little man…because why not?
the Discovery Place to see this octopus…
and Michael was even able to get this killer shot of G while he peeked into a mini aquarium…
Sorry Charlotte. That’s all we had time for. We hear you have a lovely NASCAR museum. Maybe next time.
